BOBWEIGHT PLACEMENT I always “phase” my bobweights. I start by screwing in a couple bolts into the crankshaft flange. It seems to be a good starting place and seems to place the first throw up. I level across the bolts then 0 my degree wheel. Then I level each...

SHIM IT We shim many different components to get square or level before we machine. Don't forget the rod and cap when cutting for resizing. Shim to get the parting surface to cut as the factory did whether it's 90 degrees to the sides or not, and your rods will turn...

TAP-TAP DOWEL REMOVAL When attempting to remove a locating dowel pin from a connecting rod, screw in a tap with the same diameter as the dowel pin. Then use a punch or drift to hit against the tap from the other side. The tap will grip the dowel pin and keep you from...

GET IT STRAIGHT When balancing crankshafts, I feel I is imperative that the crank straightness be checked and corrected for before any balance work is done to ensure accuracy. I have an offset indicator that I’ve come up with that mounts right in the mill drill on the...

EASY ROD DEBURR I have an easy way to deburr a connecting rod with the bolt still in and even performance rods with the dowels in. I had some file pieces drilled by my buddy at a tool shop. He drilled them about .005 over with Carbide drills. I have 3/8”, 7/16” and ½”...

HEAVY METAL When adding heavy metal to crankshafts, you always want a nice clean installation. I start with a slightly heavier slug than required and machine the center of the tungsten like a barbell to bring the crank into balance, instead of running it short in the...