EXHAUST MANIFOLD SURFACING I grind exhaust manifolds on a dry belt surface grinder. Before I grind them, I bead blast the manifold surfaces to clean off the hard rust and carbon build up first. By doing this the manifolds grind easier and the belts last longer. Wes...

CLEAN CUT When surfacing blocks or heads, it’s a good idea to deburr all the water jacket and bolt holes before making cuts. Many heads have scale and residue on those areas that can cause “drag” marks when the tool bit passes over. Marine heads, or any head that’s...

STRAIGHTENING WITH STUDS Smaller crankshafts and camshafts are so “springy” they can resist straightening and can be hard to straighten by peening. I prefer to use a peening technique on all the crankshafts and camshafts that come through the shop. When on the...

BALANCING TIMESAVER In the past, I balanced individual parts like everyone else; match all to the lightest, piston to piston, rod to rod, etc. But a few years ago, I started following this procedure: Assign all parts an identifying letter, then weigh and record all...

REMOVING PIPS Often when parting off a work piece in the lathe, the tool may leave a "pip" or thin ring attached to the work piece....even when using a right-hand cut-out insert or blade tip. Here's an easy, quick way to remove the unwanted "pip" or thin material:...

CHUCKS AND MORE CHUCKS A few rookie tips that a few old timers may have forgotten: The risk of a drill bit slipping in a Jacobs chuck, gouging the drill shank, can be significantly reduced by tightening all 3 "holes" in the chuck with the chuck key. When clamping the...