When you use different bit styles on boring bars, the size they cut can vary widely, depending on where the cutting tip is tangent to the bar centerline. Checking my own, I found there was a .007" difference between standard-type bits and the indexable bits. It's best...
I needed to install some flanged sleeves into a non-sleeved block. The only method I had to cut the counter bores is with a deck mount boring bar using the sleeve cutter bit. Because I had to feed the column by hand, I attached a large tarp strap to my chain hoist to...
For anyone running an old boring stand like ours where the bar sits directly on the deck I've found that dry Teflon lube is really helpful. It makes it much easier to slide the bar around and keeps it from scratching the surface. Any wet lubricants would hold chips...
I use steel shop carts to contain the mess of chips and honing oil. After I deck and bore a block, I'll screw in short bolts in a couple head bolt holes to protect the deck when rolling it over. The job should look good when it's done, and this is simple and...
When I'm working on something other than the familiar V8s, I mark the cam bearings with a scribe to indicate their location and orientation. Also, I'll measure how far they are in from the front and back, and note the center bearings. It sure helps when the time comes...
Here's an easy way to precisely align or clock a boring tool in a boring head. You'll need a dowel pin the same size as the tool shank to fit the boring head, a 1/4" thick x 1/2" aluminum flat bar, and a 1-1/2" x 1/2" aluminum flat bar, though the size is not...