BLOCK WORK
LIFTER BORE GO-NOGO

LIFTER BORE GO-NOGO

LIFTER BORE GO-NOGO An expedient method of checking and verifying both lifter bore wear and size is with a “go- nogo” gauge. This is not meant to replace the use of a dial bore gauge, just as a quick check. They are easily machined on a lathe. They can be machined...

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HIT YOUR MARK

HIT YOUR MARK

HIT YOUR MARK Here is a trick I use when I am boring for sleeves, line boring mains or any other type of boring where I absolutely must to hit my size and tolerance is tight. Prior to removing the tool on your 2nd to last cut, set up a mag base and a tenth indicator....

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CHAMFERING BLOCKS

CHAMFERING BLOCKS

CHAMFERING BLOCKS I have a brand name #2100 ridge reamer that has a cylinder chamfering attachment. I use it on every block that I bore. It puts a perfect 60-degree chamfer on the top of each cylinder, every time. It does not take any longer to use it than the...

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NUMBER YOUR STONES

NUMBER YOUR STONES

NUMBER YOUR STONES When changing stones on your line hone from cast iron blocks to aluminum blocks with billet caps, I take an engraving tool and engrave a #1 on my mandrels to mark where to start and engraved the stone position and mandrel size into each stone. It...

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SLEEVE LOCKS

SLEEVE LOCKS

SLEEVE LOCKS When boring and honing engines with sleeves that have only a light press fit, we have found that the torque from the honing operation may cause the sleeve to slip in the engine case.  We use 4 old 4-sided carbide inserts and some clamp bolts and nuts from...

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BORING TABLE

BORING TABLE

BORING TABLE When boring a single cylinder, I cut a hole in a table and mark holes to match the cylinder plate and drill out these holes. Now simply bolt the cylinder to the plate then mount it on the table. You won’t have to worry about stopping the boring bar before...

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