OTHER SHOP WORK
FINDING YOUR CENTER

FINDING YOUR CENTER

FINDING YOUR CENTER One the most challenging jobs is the 302 -351W cylinder head stud removal that fastens down the intake manifold. It rusts and sits at an angle which makes it almost impossible to center a drill bit for removal. The solution is to drive a 1/4-inch...

read more
INSTALLER EXTENSION

INSTALLER EXTENSION

INSTALLER EXTENSION The harmonic balancers on the 5.0 Fords are deep and need extra space. I used a small PVC pipe coupler to extend the reach of the installer.  It is cheap, lightweight, and works great. Pete Ross Petes Car Care Rochester, IL August, 2022

read more
THREAD IT TO REMOVE IT

THREAD IT TO REMOVE IT

THREAD IT TO REMOVE IT Solid smaller sized dowel pins can be stubborn sometimes. One of the most useful ways I've found to deal with the really stubborn ones is to start by putting a heavy chamfer the outside edge of the dowel with a grinder. Then I run a die on it....

read more
EXHAUST MANIFOLD SURFACING

EXHAUST MANIFOLD SURFACING

EXHAUST MANIFOLD SURFACING I grind exhaust manifolds on a dry belt surface grinder. Before I grind them, I bead blast the manifold surfaces to clean off the hard rust and carbon build up first. By doing this the manifolds grind easier and the belts last longer. Wes...

read more
CLEAN CUT

CLEAN CUT

CLEAN CUT When surfacing blocks or heads, it’s a good idea to deburr all the water jacket and bolt holes before making cuts. Many heads have scale and residue on those areas that can cause “drag” marks when the tool bit passes over. Marine heads, or any head that’s...

read more
STRAIGHTENING WITH STUDS

STRAIGHTENING WITH STUDS

STRAIGHTENING WITH STUDS Smaller crankshafts and camshafts are so “springy” they can resist straightening and can be hard to straighten by peening. I prefer to use a peening technique on all the crankshafts and camshafts that come through the shop. When on the...

read more