BLOCK WORK
CAP MILLING

CAP MILLING

CAP MILLING I like to mill my main caps instead of grinding them, when possible. The milling process gets them very flat with accurate stock removal. This “Vice Adjuster” makes it quick to set tilt and I use a precision level along with an indicator to dial-in side to...

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GETTING A HANDLE ON IT

GETTING A HANDLE ON IT

GETTING A HANDLE ON IT This is a simple handle I made for blocks to support them while setting them up in machines that require you to level or tram with a jack screw. It threads into a cylinder head bolt hole. I use it on the surfacer, lifter true machine and it is...

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LIFTER BORE GO-NOGO

LIFTER BORE GO-NOGO

LIFTER BORE GO-NOGO An expedient method of checking and verifying both lifter bore wear and size is with a “go- nogo” gauge. This is not meant to replace the use of a dial bore gauge, just as a quick check. They are easily machined on a lathe. They can be machined...

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HIT YOUR MARK

HIT YOUR MARK

HIT YOUR MARK Here is a trick I use when I am boring for sleeves, line boring mains or any other type of boring where I absolutely must to hit my size and tolerance is tight. Prior to removing the tool on your 2nd to last cut, set up a mag base and a tenth indicator....

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CHAMFERING BLOCKS

CHAMFERING BLOCKS

CHAMFERING BLOCKS I have a brand name #2100 ridge reamer that has a cylinder chamfering attachment. I use it on every block that I bore. It puts a perfect 60-degree chamfer on the top of each cylinder, every time. It does not take any longer to use it than the...

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NUMBER YOUR STONES

NUMBER YOUR STONES

NUMBER YOUR STONES When changing stones on your line hone from cast iron blocks to aluminum blocks with billet caps, I take an engraving tool and engrave a #1 on my mandrels to mark where to start and engraved the stone position and mandrel size into each stone. It...

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