This tip may be helpful for the DIY guy at home to easily remove the plastic barbell plug from an LS engine. Unscrew the oil galley plug at the driver’s rear of engine block. Insert a 90-degree pick tool inside the oil passage and pry rearward on the backside of the...
OIL PUMP PRESSURE TESTER When modifying oil pumps for max relief pressure, it can be a crapshoot until the engine is running. This is one of my 50-year-old test units manufactured essentially from spare parts. A main cap, pressure gauge, and a sealable container. (To...
BEAT THE HEAT Too much heat can destroy an engine. Gas engines are designed to operate between 190-220 degrees F, hotter than 220 and you’ve got an overheat situation. As an engine overheats, aluminum material will begin to warp, expand and even crack. A warped...
THREAD DEPTH MARKER When tapping tapered pipe thread for oil or coolant passage plugs in blocks and cylinder heads, it is important not to tap too shallow nor too deep. A length of soft copper wire, twisted around the tap, works much better than tape or a Sharpie mark...
EARLY SPIN ON FILTER ADAPTER When I restore an early Chevy V8 that used a cannister oil filter, I like to update for a late style spin-on filter. I machine up a ring 3.800” O.D. with a 3.075” I.D., .300” thick. I bore out the block to except it. I’ve used aluminum and...
STOP FRETTING If you work on any high-power adder or high rpm engines, chances are you will see some fretting on the bottoms of main caps and the backside of the upper rod bearing. Even when the tune is right you will still see minor signs of movement between the...