PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT Whether you own a shop or work in a shop, take care of your investment in measuring tools. If you've ever damaged one you know what I mean. I always set them on shop rags in an old valve box while using them. They stay cleaner and don't get...
REFILLS When balancing a crankshaft for heavier parts, often you must add metal in an existing hole. If the hole was drilled with a regular drill bit, versus a spade drill, the hole can be irregular and oversized. It can be time consuming to try to make a slug that...
CHUCKS AND MORE CHUCKS A few rookie tips that a few old timers may have forgotten: The risk of a drill bit slipping in a Jacobs chuck, gouging the drill shank, can be significantly reduced by tightening all 3 "holes" in the chuck with the chuck key. When clamping the...
MOVE YOUR SPOT Sometimes when I first spin up a crank, the correction area is off the counterweight. Instead of grinding up by the rod throw, try adding weight to the opposite end if there are balance holes already. I taped in some flat disc plugs until the “spot”...
POLISHING THE BIG END Starting to see more and more cracked (powdered metal) connecting rods these days. After checking to make sure the size is correct, I use a plateau brush with a few drops of oil to clean up any rust or dirt. If you have a finished set of rods...
EXTRACTING SHARP EDGES I like to chamfer the sharp edges on lifter bores after shotblasting blocks. I use a spiral flute extractor and just rotate it clockwise a few times with my fingers to remove any peened over edges. I find that it works better than a lot of my...