Here's an easy way to precisely align or clock a boring tool in a boring head. You'll need a dowel pin the same size as the tool shank to fit the boring head, a 1/4" thick x 1/2" aluminum flat bar, and a 1-1/2" x 1/2" aluminum flat bar, though the size is not...
When boring blocks, in addition to a cardboard chip deflector and a vacuum cleaner running under it, I still wipe the bar down with a microfiber as it retracts. Just one more way to keep chips out of the column seal. Ron Flood Cedar Machine North Branch, MN
When I'm boring a block, I draw a little line on the micrometer with a felt tip, once it's set. This way I can see at a glance that I haven't inadvertently loosened the lock screw and/or changed the setting. You don't really have to focus in on the setting each time,...
It is good practice to lube up the main cap registers on aluminum blocks before seating the main caps. I have noticed the registers will peel aluminum when driving a steel main cap into place. Applying a thin layer of high-pressure grease to the cap and block will...
When sleeving blocks that have stroker clearance work done, I make a pattern from the bore ID and transfer it to the sleeve. This allows me to do most of the clearance work to the sleeve before installation using the mill. Find a reference mark on the block and draw...
Freshly bored blocks leave a sharp edge on the bottom where the skirts protrude. I've found one of these little belt sanders are perfect to break that edge and add a chamfer. The outboard side I do from the crankcase and the Inboard side I put the sander through the...