When I'm boring a block, I draw a little line on the micrometer with a felt tip, once it's set. This way I can see at a glance that I haven't inadvertently loosened the lock screw and/or changed the setting. You don't really have to focus in on the setting each time,...
It is good practice to lube up the main cap registers on aluminum blocks before seating the main caps. I have noticed the registers will peel aluminum when driving a steel main cap into place. Applying a thin layer of high-pressure grease to the cap and block will...
When sleeving blocks that have stroker clearance work done, I make a pattern from the bore ID and transfer it to the sleeve. This allows me to do most of the clearance work to the sleeve before installation using the mill. Find a reference mark on the block and draw...
Freshly bored blocks leave a sharp edge on the bottom where the skirts protrude. I've found one of these little belt sanders are perfect to break that edge and add a chamfer. The outboard side I do from the crankcase and the Inboard side I put the sander through the...
Sometimes when chasing the head bolt holes on Chevy blocks, you'll hit a casting knob. Then you think, will the bolt thread in far enough. I use a 7/16 valve guide and some washers to mimic the cylinder head thickness. This saves time by not having to measure every...
On blocks and heads that have “suspect areas”, I have a “quick check” before I commit to bolting on the pressure test plates. I simply use my blow gun with a brake line attached, and blow air behind the questionable area, with some soap or bubble spray on the face...