Sometimes when chasing the head bolt holes on Chevy blocks, you'll hit a casting knob. Then you think, will the bolt thread in far enough. I use a 7/16 valve guide and some washers to mimic the cylinder head thickness. This saves time by not having to measure every...
On blocks and heads that have “suspect areas”, I have a “quick check” before I commit to bolting on the pressure test plates. I simply use my blow gun with a brake line attached, and blow air behind the questionable area, with some soap or bubble spray on the face...
After assembling over 5,000 engines, I have seen just about every conceivable problem that can arise during engine assembly. One particular area of concern was the cam bearing housing bore size in all engines, particularly Ford small block and big block engines,...
Instead of hammering sleeves in, I made this fixture out of a small bottle jack, threaded rod, and a steel plate. Once the plate is drilled for different blocks it makes the job super-fast, and my arm isn’t sore from swinging the hammer.
When boring the cylinders in an engine block, you have to set up a tool bit and it takes time to do so. If you have a preset bit for each of the most common engine bores, you just have to pick it up and use it. They are ready to use and make the job quicker and...
I was never a fan of tapping a 1/2" hole for a 1/2" pipe plug which measures about .530 diameter. I've been using 9/16-18 set screws for the SB Chevy street and race builds for years. A 9/16” starting tap will work without drilling, and I finish up with a bottom tap....